Chef Fiorenzo emphasized that Italian cuisine is based on the region, the product, and the producer. “True original cooking is based on the land, not imported or exported. It is better to have less dishes, but to know your products.” This chef also used the terminology “Zero Kilometer Cooking.” As you can see in the pictures the chef has a very large organic garden on his property from which he gathers many of the products he prepares. He had basement with many fruits, vegetables, and juices that he preserved and uses in the restaurant. He has a cheese aging room and meat aging room under the restaurant. At breakfast we not only had jams and preserves from his property, but apple juice that he made and put up and Sambuca from foraged Sambuca flowers. It was a wonderful few days cooking with a passionate, traditional, locally minded Chef; it is his life not a trend.
The Trentino region is a very diverse region in the north east part of Italy above and to the east of the Lombardy region and west of the Veneto region. It is in the Dolomite Mountains and borders Austria. The area has a varied climate from a Mediterranean climate capable of producing olives, and citrus fruits in the southern part of Lake Garda to the Alpine harshness which offers its own bounty of products. The area produces many wines, and is known for producing a variety of excellent white wines in particular. A variety of grapes are grown in the region from the southernmost point to the mountains. The mountains are known for their quality of livestock to be used for both cheese production and for beef. The mountain areas produce a variety of cheeses using the milk from cows, sheep, and goats. The cheeses of the Trentino tend to be less potent tasting then cheeses in some of the other regions of Italy. It is a reflection of their proximity to the German world where many of the cheeses tend to be on the milder side. The area does produce a cheese called Trentingrana which is a wonderful aged cheese that is made high up in the mountains that is very similar to Grana Padano, and Parmesan Reggiano, but has its own wonderful characteristics. It is worth seeking out. The Trentino has an amazing agricultural heritage and produces a wide variety of fruits and vegetables. The area produces an amazing amount of apples, but also apricots, cherries, berries, kiwi, olives, figs and many other fruits. The area has many wild herbs and plants, and mushrooms are abundant in the fall and spring. There are areas in the Trentino such as the Gresta Valley that are dedicated to farming based exclusively on the use of natural and organic methods. The mountains provide wonderful grazing land for cows, sheep and goats. While these animals spend the cold winters inside barns eating grass and hay cut over the summer, they spend the spring, summer, and fall grazing the mountain pastures, eating grass, plants, and wildflowers. The meat and milk from these animals are very flavorful because of their alpine diet. Asino (Ass) is used in the region, as is game. Cervo (deer) is prevalent and is used both cooked-often in stews, and cured. We tasted prosciutto made from Asino and ate cured and cooked Cervo – all were wonderful. Many people here do their own curing. Speck is a favorite of the area- Speck is a cured and smoked pork belly that is popular in Germany and Austria. The region also provides for excellent fresh water fish, primarily trout. Honey is produced- think flowering alpine meadows. Chestnuts are prevalent and are used in a variety of preparations sweet and savory. And lets not forget polenta – this area grows a special corn that is dried and ground for polenta. Flour of Storo is the preferred cornmeal for making polenta in the region. Interesting what we call Caraway Seeds – is called Cumino , I was confused at first. Also at every meal we drank Sambuca – a sweet drink made from simple syrup and the Sambuca flower that grows wild here.
We cooked: Tortel di Patate –like a Roesti Potato, Vellutata di Asparagi (w/ white asparagus), Gnocchetti di Ricotta ed Erbe Fini, Strangolpreti (choke the priest), Canederli, Polenta Normale, Polenta di Patate, Sguazet (offal stew), Cervo in Umido (Wild Deer Stew), Salas Anice, Torta di Carote, Zelten Trentino, and Grostoli. We tasted many wonderful cured meat and cheese. We had prosciutto made from Asino (ass) it was really tasty. Also some carpaccio of Cervo (deer) that had been marinated and then aged in a sealed vacuum bag for many months, very tender, and great flavor. We tasted many the jams and preserved vegetables and fruits the chef made, including a Pepper Preserve that reminded me of being in Texas and eating Jalapeno Jelly – it was a nice surprise.
Wednesday, May 28, 2008
Monday, May 26, 2008
The Perfect Field Trip - Just Maybe?
At 6:00 am Tuesday morning I took the two minute walk to meet my classmates outside Chichibio restaurant so we could travel north on the A14 across Italy to the Trentino Alto Adige. We left the rolling hills of Jesi, traveled along the coastline of the northern Marche, and then hit the flat plains of Emilia Romagna, passing through Bologna. We entered the Veneto Region and passed the exit for Verona and shortly after for Lago di Garda Sud, and that is when we got into the hills again. Within a short time the terrain changed, we climbed in elevation, the architecture of the buildings started to look German/Austrian, and you had the definite feeling of being in the Alps. We were high up in the Italian Dolomite Mountains breathing in cool fresh air, and taking in beautiful panoramic vistas. We stayed on an Agriturismo called Masa Speron d’ Oro near the town of Marco Di Rovereto in the Trentino.
I thought a good way to describe this trip might be to think of the movie “The Sound of Music” –but it is all about awesome food, take out the Von Trapp kids and add 5 crazy student s and Chiara, one super passionate Chef Fiorenza Varesco, and subtract the Nazi’s . Fantastico, Benissimo, Ultimo! The chef wanted us to meet the producers of the products that he uses, he wanted to cook with us, but he was interested in us understanding what makes the Trentino Alto Adige so unique and wonderful. I must say he succeeded. All in this class are capable of executing a recipe at a high level, what is more valuable is understanding the background, culture, ingredients and techniques so when we execute a dish from a region we understand what the parameters and the outcomes should be from a regional, and micro regional perspective. The cooking component of this trip is contained in another blog on the Trentino. Places we visited included:
Casaficio Malga Cerin- in Tesero – an organic cheese maker. It is a small two person operation that uses their own milk to make both cow and goat milk cheeses. They only use raw milk (unpasteurized) to make their cheeses. They make a variety of styles from fresh ricotta to flavorful washed rind aged cheeses. We did a tasting of their cheese which were all very good, but the best part was going through the process of making the cheese from 280 liters of raw milk, heating to 36C, adding rennet(from calf), watching and checking the formation of the curd, cutting the curd to the correct size (in this case noce or hazelnut size), heating the curd to 55C (this is considered cooked cheese), checking the feel of the curd frequently (these are handmade cheeses), and at the right time draining the curd into baskets and weighing them down with heavy weights, after a few minutes turning the curd over in the basket and weighing again for even draining and shape, covering the baskets in the perforated bin that contained the whey in the lower portion so it was humid. The cheese would sit out like this over night. Then put into salt water, then the washing process, and aging process. None of the cheeses are sold outside the region, but one of them has been put on the Slow Food Presidia. Their most famous cheese is called “Bad Smell”, it doesn’t. It has strong aroma, but a nice rounded flavor.
Birra di Fiemme – Birra Artigianale – Artisan Beer Producer – This is a one man beer company. This area has a history of beer making that in recent times has become lost. This man is a leader in reviving the tradition; he started making his beer over 10 years ago. He uses organic ingredients and mountain water, which he says is of the utmost importance to the quality of his beer. We tasted the malt, barley, and hops. The malt had such a great aroma and taste. He said in past times people of the area used to make risotto with the flowers of the Hops plant. We tasted three wonderful beers – 1. Chiara – it had low temperature fermentation at 6C – it was pale golden, very smooth with great flavor – 2. Weitzen- a wheat beer fermented at 18C-darker color, much more pronounced flavor, with hints of herbs and spices. 3 Rossa Speciale – Red Beer toasted and caramelized malt and barley – had a great full flavor- he was sold out of this beer. With the beer tasting we had some awesome cured Pancetta that Fiorenzo made – we ate a ton- plus a couple of cheeses from Malga Cerin, one of them covered in toasted/crushed malt and barley. We all got some beer to bring back to the school and our apartments.
We visited an unnamed small organic farm-a piccolo agricoltori – they pasture raised Suffolk and other breeds of sheep for both milk and meat. Cows for milk and meat, and a variety of fruits and vegetables. They also cured their own speck, prosciuttos and salame, not only from pork,also from sheep and wild game. We were invited into the family’s house and had a wonderful tasting of cured meats, and pickled vegetables, and homemade bread. The pickled vegetables reminded me of being back in the south and enjoying a good chowchow. Wine produced on the farm was also served and was very good. I had my first taste of Sambuca on the farm, and I drank it with every meal thereafter. This Sambuca is made from a mountain flower called Sambuca. The flowers are mixed with simple syrup and left to steep for a few days. The drink is sweet, floral, with hints of spice, a kind of exotic taste, which I really enjoyed.
Allevamento di Salmerini – a fish farm that was in an offshoot of a flowing river, so there is a constant flow of water into and out of the fish ponds. The fish which is like a Salmon Trout are not fed an artificial diet, but feed from the river system. The fish are raised until they are between 2 and 3 years old. The fish looked beautiful and healthy. After touring the grounds and getting the low down on the production we all grabbed poles, and worms and proceeded to catch our dinner. We cleaned the fish and got ready to eat. We were invited to eat with the family who owned the farm. They had a great outdoor wood burning stove/flat top. The burning oak smelled great. They stuffed the inside of the trout with fresh cut herbs, and olive oil and placed them on the flat top. They set up an outdoor covered dining area and we all drooled as the trout cooked. We had a great family meal with the trout, crispy potatoes, salad, wine and Sambuca. For dessert they brought out Strudel, a berry tart and Grostoli, a typical fried sweet of the Trentino that is prepared around Carnevale. I had a piece of strudel, a piece of tart, and about 5 Grostoli – everything was very good. They also served an interesting drink made from the fruit of pine trees. The family was so warm and hospitable, it was a wonderful time.
Botanical Garden on Mount Baldo – it was interesting to see and discuss all the herbs, edible flowers and plants that not only grew in the immediate vicinity, but those that grow in the micro climates around the region. It was interesting to see and taste some of the products we had already experienced like Sambuca. We also saw many poisonous plants and flowers. An interesting visit.
Azienda Agricola Biologica –Terleth Ignaz – on Monte Baldo – an organic farm that primarily raises organic grass feed beef in the high mountains. This is a stunningly beautiful place – that is remote. The farm is situated on land that used to divide Austria and Italy. Several times on this trip Chiara would say “ I don’t know what they are saying, they are speaking in dialect”. We took a tour of the farm and saw this huge three story beautiful barn where the animals live in the winter. Spring, summer, and fall the animals graze the lush pastures of the mountain side. The farm has about 130 head of cattle, and the primary breed raised is called Razza Scozzese Highland or Scottish Highland Breed. We saw an old church that they say sits directly on the old border of Italy and Austria, the church is now filled with the most amazing variety of cured meat products your heart could desire. Whole sides of pig were hanging making the slow transformation into Speck; it had become the “Church of Cured Meat”. We walked back to the farmer’s house and the chef started a fire in the huge fireplace used for heat and for smoking cured meats hung high up in the ceiling. Then we sat around the table and tasted a variety of cured meats (Speck to die for), cheeses, and boiled potatoes-peel, salt and pepper-yum. Then the chef called us into the other room and he broke out about 15 huge Bistecca a la Trentino (T-Bone steaks). He lightly seasoned the steak and used branches of herbs to brush oil on the steaks, and then he cooked them in the fire place. He asked how we wanted our steaks and I asked for mine rare. We discussed beef and steak while the meat was cooking and resting. When it was time to serve, he found a particular steak – the biggest, most beautiful rarest piece and he said “this is yours”. It was not only huge, but delicious. Most people were sharing steak; I finished mine and ate half of Masa’s. The farmer and the chef loved that I could eat! The wine flowed like there was no tomorrow. The conversation was great, at times there were conversations going on in 4 languages Italian, German, English, and Japanese. We laughed and laughed, more wine, Grappa, then the homemade Grappa flavored with the Sambuca flower and local herbs. Café – but don’t forget to add the Grappa! The chef had the farmer fill a bottle of Grappa for Masa to bring back to Jesi (he was the Grappa guy, I was the steak guy). It was a magical night. Back to the agriturismo for the night, and another day of cooking ahead. The perfect field trip!
I thought a good way to describe this trip might be to think of the movie “The Sound of Music” –but it is all about awesome food, take out the Von Trapp kids and add 5 crazy student s and Chiara, one super passionate Chef Fiorenza Varesco, and subtract the Nazi’s . Fantastico, Benissimo, Ultimo! The chef wanted us to meet the producers of the products that he uses, he wanted to cook with us, but he was interested in us understanding what makes the Trentino Alto Adige so unique and wonderful. I must say he succeeded. All in this class are capable of executing a recipe at a high level, what is more valuable is understanding the background, culture, ingredients and techniques so when we execute a dish from a region we understand what the parameters and the outcomes should be from a regional, and micro regional perspective. The cooking component of this trip is contained in another blog on the Trentino. Places we visited included:
Casaficio Malga Cerin- in Tesero – an organic cheese maker. It is a small two person operation that uses their own milk to make both cow and goat milk cheeses. They only use raw milk (unpasteurized) to make their cheeses. They make a variety of styles from fresh ricotta to flavorful washed rind aged cheeses. We did a tasting of their cheese which were all very good, but the best part was going through the process of making the cheese from 280 liters of raw milk, heating to 36C, adding rennet(from calf), watching and checking the formation of the curd, cutting the curd to the correct size (in this case noce or hazelnut size), heating the curd to 55C (this is considered cooked cheese), checking the feel of the curd frequently (these are handmade cheeses), and at the right time draining the curd into baskets and weighing them down with heavy weights, after a few minutes turning the curd over in the basket and weighing again for even draining and shape, covering the baskets in the perforated bin that contained the whey in the lower portion so it was humid. The cheese would sit out like this over night. Then put into salt water, then the washing process, and aging process. None of the cheeses are sold outside the region, but one of them has been put on the Slow Food Presidia. Their most famous cheese is called “Bad Smell”, it doesn’t. It has strong aroma, but a nice rounded flavor.
Birra di Fiemme – Birra Artigianale – Artisan Beer Producer – This is a one man beer company. This area has a history of beer making that in recent times has become lost. This man is a leader in reviving the tradition; he started making his beer over 10 years ago. He uses organic ingredients and mountain water, which he says is of the utmost importance to the quality of his beer. We tasted the malt, barley, and hops. The malt had such a great aroma and taste. He said in past times people of the area used to make risotto with the flowers of the Hops plant. We tasted three wonderful beers – 1. Chiara – it had low temperature fermentation at 6C – it was pale golden, very smooth with great flavor – 2. Weitzen- a wheat beer fermented at 18C-darker color, much more pronounced flavor, with hints of herbs and spices. 3 Rossa Speciale – Red Beer toasted and caramelized malt and barley – had a great full flavor- he was sold out of this beer. With the beer tasting we had some awesome cured Pancetta that Fiorenzo made – we ate a ton- plus a couple of cheeses from Malga Cerin, one of them covered in toasted/crushed malt and barley. We all got some beer to bring back to the school and our apartments.
We visited an unnamed small organic farm-a piccolo agricoltori – they pasture raised Suffolk and other breeds of sheep for both milk and meat. Cows for milk and meat, and a variety of fruits and vegetables. They also cured their own speck, prosciuttos and salame, not only from pork,also from sheep and wild game. We were invited into the family’s house and had a wonderful tasting of cured meats, and pickled vegetables, and homemade bread. The pickled vegetables reminded me of being back in the south and enjoying a good chowchow. Wine produced on the farm was also served and was very good. I had my first taste of Sambuca on the farm, and I drank it with every meal thereafter. This Sambuca is made from a mountain flower called Sambuca. The flowers are mixed with simple syrup and left to steep for a few days. The drink is sweet, floral, with hints of spice, a kind of exotic taste, which I really enjoyed.
Allevamento di Salmerini – a fish farm that was in an offshoot of a flowing river, so there is a constant flow of water into and out of the fish ponds. The fish which is like a Salmon Trout are not fed an artificial diet, but feed from the river system. The fish are raised until they are between 2 and 3 years old. The fish looked beautiful and healthy. After touring the grounds and getting the low down on the production we all grabbed poles, and worms and proceeded to catch our dinner. We cleaned the fish and got ready to eat. We were invited to eat with the family who owned the farm. They had a great outdoor wood burning stove/flat top. The burning oak smelled great. They stuffed the inside of the trout with fresh cut herbs, and olive oil and placed them on the flat top. They set up an outdoor covered dining area and we all drooled as the trout cooked. We had a great family meal with the trout, crispy potatoes, salad, wine and Sambuca. For dessert they brought out Strudel, a berry tart and Grostoli, a typical fried sweet of the Trentino that is prepared around Carnevale. I had a piece of strudel, a piece of tart, and about 5 Grostoli – everything was very good. They also served an interesting drink made from the fruit of pine trees. The family was so warm and hospitable, it was a wonderful time.
Botanical Garden on Mount Baldo – it was interesting to see and discuss all the herbs, edible flowers and plants that not only grew in the immediate vicinity, but those that grow in the micro climates around the region. It was interesting to see and taste some of the products we had already experienced like Sambuca. We also saw many poisonous plants and flowers. An interesting visit.
Azienda Agricola Biologica –Terleth Ignaz – on Monte Baldo – an organic farm that primarily raises organic grass feed beef in the high mountains. This is a stunningly beautiful place – that is remote. The farm is situated on land that used to divide Austria and Italy. Several times on this trip Chiara would say “ I don’t know what they are saying, they are speaking in dialect”. We took a tour of the farm and saw this huge three story beautiful barn where the animals live in the winter. Spring, summer, and fall the animals graze the lush pastures of the mountain side. The farm has about 130 head of cattle, and the primary breed raised is called Razza Scozzese Highland or Scottish Highland Breed. We saw an old church that they say sits directly on the old border of Italy and Austria, the church is now filled with the most amazing variety of cured meat products your heart could desire. Whole sides of pig were hanging making the slow transformation into Speck; it had become the “Church of Cured Meat”. We walked back to the farmer’s house and the chef started a fire in the huge fireplace used for heat and for smoking cured meats hung high up in the ceiling. Then we sat around the table and tasted a variety of cured meats (Speck to die for), cheeses, and boiled potatoes-peel, salt and pepper-yum. Then the chef called us into the other room and he broke out about 15 huge Bistecca a la Trentino (T-Bone steaks). He lightly seasoned the steak and used branches of herbs to brush oil on the steaks, and then he cooked them in the fire place. He asked how we wanted our steaks and I asked for mine rare. We discussed beef and steak while the meat was cooking and resting. When it was time to serve, he found a particular steak – the biggest, most beautiful rarest piece and he said “this is yours”. It was not only huge, but delicious. Most people were sharing steak; I finished mine and ate half of Masa’s. The farmer and the chef loved that I could eat! The wine flowed like there was no tomorrow. The conversation was great, at times there were conversations going on in 4 languages Italian, German, English, and Japanese. We laughed and laughed, more wine, Grappa, then the homemade Grappa flavored with the Sambuca flower and local herbs. Café – but don’t forget to add the Grappa! The chef had the farmer fill a bottle of Grappa for Masa to bring back to Jesi (he was the Grappa guy, I was the steak guy). It was a magical night. Back to the agriturismo for the night, and another day of cooking ahead. The perfect field trip!
Sunday, May 25, 2008
Cheese One
Cheese Tasting One
This is a summary of cheese tasting one it does not include the lecture notes. We also taste other cheeses during our regional sessions in the kitchen and notes on those cheeses are included in the regional discussions. It seems strange to tastes wines, cheese, salume, and olive oil that are not always great, but being able to compare products that are flawed with those that are not flawed is very informative and really gets your taste buds, olfactory senses and your brain working to determine what makes something bad, ok, good, or great. It is a great workout for the brain and all your senses.
Mozzarella di Bufala – from Campania –smells of sweet cream, has a good taste sweet taste of milk, but is probably about 7 days old, it is has a slight skin – a fresh mozzarella should not have any skin. If a fresh mozzarella tastes a little bitter it can be from the grass the animal has eaten. Bufala and Capra – don’t digest carotene therefore their milks and cheese are very white. Pair fresh Mozzarella di Bufala with Spumante
Burrata – cows milk, a stretched curd fresh cheese like mozzarella – that is stretched and filled with fresh cream, then it is closed. When you cut it open a buttery, creamy center is revealed. It is a great fresh cheese. Molto Dolce – Exterior is little chewy – probably made at too high a temperature.
Stracchino – cows milk, in the old days the cheese was made from the milk from cows that worked the fields and it was called “Stracco Stanco” – milk from tired cows. The milk was not as rich from these cows. It is a fresh cheese, smells of milk, off white color – nice and tangy flavor. Very little aging – 10 days, soft cheese.
Ca Sciotta D’ Urbino – DOP Cheese- sheep’s milk “Pecora” - aged 30-90 days- The rind should be thin, if it is thick the cheese has been age too dry or too hot. Has small holes, aromas of butter, cream, cheese, slight straw, potatoes. Mild flavor not bitter(amaro), low acidity, balance. Can be used for dolce.
Asiago – DOP – from the Veneto region -90-100 Days- the best Asiago’s are aged for 1 year or more. This one has small holes, yellowish color, Simple aromas of butter, potato, milk. Semi soft – dolce, no acid, sticks to the palate, a common cheese-not distinguished, too young.
Camoscio D’ Oro – mould ripened cheese, like a Camabert or brie-it is found all over Italy. The rind has slight aromas of mold, ammonia. Inside smells of butter. Taste-butter, fairly sweet, mushrooms(from the rind)
Chevre di Capra – 2 days old, acid, tangy, brewer’s yeast, bitter(amaro) – the cheese has a defect.
Robiola Di Roccaverano – DOP-made from Latte Di Capra ,from the Piedmont, but can be made with mixed milks also. Smells of male goat, butter, and mushroom. Taste is full flavored, rich, creamy, animal, and mushroom.
Gorgonzola - Dolce- aged 50 days – too young. Smells of buttermilk. Not a nice consistency, soft, runny, not a lot of character- not a very good cheese.
This is a summary of cheese tasting one it does not include the lecture notes. We also taste other cheeses during our regional sessions in the kitchen and notes on those cheeses are included in the regional discussions. It seems strange to tastes wines, cheese, salume, and olive oil that are not always great, but being able to compare products that are flawed with those that are not flawed is very informative and really gets your taste buds, olfactory senses and your brain working to determine what makes something bad, ok, good, or great. It is a great workout for the brain and all your senses.
Mozzarella di Bufala – from Campania –smells of sweet cream, has a good taste sweet taste of milk, but is probably about 7 days old, it is has a slight skin – a fresh mozzarella should not have any skin. If a fresh mozzarella tastes a little bitter it can be from the grass the animal has eaten. Bufala and Capra – don’t digest carotene therefore their milks and cheese are very white. Pair fresh Mozzarella di Bufala with Spumante
Burrata – cows milk, a stretched curd fresh cheese like mozzarella – that is stretched and filled with fresh cream, then it is closed. When you cut it open a buttery, creamy center is revealed. It is a great fresh cheese. Molto Dolce – Exterior is little chewy – probably made at too high a temperature.
Stracchino – cows milk, in the old days the cheese was made from the milk from cows that worked the fields and it was called “Stracco Stanco” – milk from tired cows. The milk was not as rich from these cows. It is a fresh cheese, smells of milk, off white color – nice and tangy flavor. Very little aging – 10 days, soft cheese.
Ca Sciotta D’ Urbino – DOP Cheese- sheep’s milk “Pecora” - aged 30-90 days- The rind should be thin, if it is thick the cheese has been age too dry or too hot. Has small holes, aromas of butter, cream, cheese, slight straw, potatoes. Mild flavor not bitter(amaro), low acidity, balance. Can be used for dolce.
Asiago – DOP – from the Veneto region -90-100 Days- the best Asiago’s are aged for 1 year or more. This one has small holes, yellowish color, Simple aromas of butter, potato, milk. Semi soft – dolce, no acid, sticks to the palate, a common cheese-not distinguished, too young.
Camoscio D’ Oro – mould ripened cheese, like a Camabert or brie-it is found all over Italy. The rind has slight aromas of mold, ammonia. Inside smells of butter. Taste-butter, fairly sweet, mushrooms(from the rind)
Chevre di Capra – 2 days old, acid, tangy, brewer’s yeast, bitter(amaro) – the cheese has a defect.
Robiola Di Roccaverano – DOP-made from Latte Di Capra ,from the Piedmont, but can be made with mixed milks also. Smells of male goat, butter, and mushroom. Taste is full flavored, rich, creamy, animal, and mushroom.
Gorgonzola - Dolce- aged 50 days – too young. Smells of buttermilk. Not a nice consistency, soft, runny, not a lot of character- not a very good cheese.
Wine 1 &2
Wine Tasting One and Two
I am not going to summarize the lectures and all the information but simply review the tasting and tasting notes. “Aging means evolution – Thanks to evolution we can have harmony”
Spumante - Serenelli Brut – from the Ancona Province
Small bubbles, light yellow color, aromas of pineapple, green apple, lemon, butter, hazelnuts, Ginestra – a fragrant yellow flower that is prevalent in the region. Tastes light, dry, fresh, bright, good balance of minerals and acidity. Grapes are Montepulciano and Chardonnay. A good Spumante –can go with all types of food
Casal di Serra 2006 -Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi-Classico Superiore – by Umani Ronchi
Color – straw, limpid – Aromas of lemon, apricot, flowers, pineapple, butter, Molto minerale, dried fruit and almonds. Dry, mineral, molto caldo, citrus, pineapple, good structure, balanced, and ready to drink. More mineral than most Verdicchio because it comes from old vines. 20% of the wine is aged in barrels. Would go well with a seafood risotto, Pasta with Truffles, Seafood
Vigneti Del Parco 2003- Rosso Conero Riserva – by Moncaro
100% Montepulciano – Very deep burgundy color, good limpidity, Aromas- toasty oak, cherry, vanilla, plum, leather, spices, blackberry – intense and complex. Tastes- medium tannins, fairly smooth, black fruit, oak, good structure, and body- has not reached perfect balance yet, but is ripe. Would go well with a good Sugo from the Marche.
Biano Pecorino 2006- Velenosi – by Villa Angela
Made with the Batonnage technique – Limpid,-Color is amber –yellow, deep consistency, aromas of apple, straw, honey, overripe fruit, exotic fruits, pears, grapefruit bitter almonds, oxidation-maybe not good Batonnage technique- Tastes-soft, little fresh, sapid, lost structure, not a perfect balance- should have been drunk earlier. Made from Pecorino grapes.
Irpinia 2003–Aglianico – Cinque Querce
-A wine from Campania, Color Rosso, it is limpid, deep/rich consistency, Aromas of oak, wild cherry, preserved fruit, clove, leather. Taste-dry, abastanza morbid, fresh, abastanza, tannic, buona saptida,. Ready, but not old-Perfect color and perfect tannins, good taste of fruit and good strength. Pair with lasagna al forno, game, lamb.
Tordiruta 2003 – Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi –Passito – by Moncaro
Passito – means it is a sweet wine- made with botrytis effected grapes. Deep golden, yellow color – Clear and bright- great limpidity, -thick – Intense aromas – a lot of perfume – exotic fruits, apricot, peach in syrup, honey, sage and white pepper. Tastes of pear, and exotic fruits and spices- sweet, but not too sweet – great structure –elegant. “ Something you can eat and drink”.
I am not going to summarize the lectures and all the information but simply review the tasting and tasting notes. “Aging means evolution – Thanks to evolution we can have harmony”
Spumante - Serenelli Brut – from the Ancona Province
Small bubbles, light yellow color, aromas of pineapple, green apple, lemon, butter, hazelnuts, Ginestra – a fragrant yellow flower that is prevalent in the region. Tastes light, dry, fresh, bright, good balance of minerals and acidity. Grapes are Montepulciano and Chardonnay. A good Spumante –can go with all types of food
Casal di Serra 2006 -Verdicchio Castelli di Jesi-Classico Superiore – by Umani Ronchi
Color – straw, limpid – Aromas of lemon, apricot, flowers, pineapple, butter, Molto minerale, dried fruit and almonds. Dry, mineral, molto caldo, citrus, pineapple, good structure, balanced, and ready to drink. More mineral than most Verdicchio because it comes from old vines. 20% of the wine is aged in barrels. Would go well with a seafood risotto, Pasta with Truffles, Seafood
Vigneti Del Parco 2003- Rosso Conero Riserva – by Moncaro
100% Montepulciano – Very deep burgundy color, good limpidity, Aromas- toasty oak, cherry, vanilla, plum, leather, spices, blackberry – intense and complex. Tastes- medium tannins, fairly smooth, black fruit, oak, good structure, and body- has not reached perfect balance yet, but is ripe. Would go well with a good Sugo from the Marche.
Biano Pecorino 2006- Velenosi – by Villa Angela
Made with the Batonnage technique – Limpid,-Color is amber –yellow, deep consistency, aromas of apple, straw, honey, overripe fruit, exotic fruits, pears, grapefruit bitter almonds, oxidation-maybe not good Batonnage technique- Tastes-soft, little fresh, sapid, lost structure, not a perfect balance- should have been drunk earlier. Made from Pecorino grapes.
Irpinia 2003–Aglianico – Cinque Querce
-A wine from Campania, Color Rosso, it is limpid, deep/rich consistency, Aromas of oak, wild cherry, preserved fruit, clove, leather. Taste-dry, abastanza morbid, fresh, abastanza, tannic, buona saptida,. Ready, but not old-Perfect color and perfect tannins, good taste of fruit and good strength. Pair with lasagna al forno, game, lamb.
Tordiruta 2003 – Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi –Passito – by Moncaro
Passito – means it is a sweet wine- made with botrytis effected grapes. Deep golden, yellow color – Clear and bright- great limpidity, -thick – Intense aromas – a lot of perfume – exotic fruits, apricot, peach in syrup, honey, sage and white pepper. Tastes of pear, and exotic fruits and spices- sweet, but not too sweet – great structure –elegant. “ Something you can eat and drink”.
Monday, May 19, 2008
Macellaio – The Butcher
Macellaio – Paolo Novembrini
Paolo’s butcher shop is in the town of Moie 9km from Jesi, it is the same town that Chef Giuliano Pediconi is from. Paolo arrived to the school in a small refrigerator truck in which a ½ of cow and a ½ of pig were hanging. Paolo comes from a family of butchers; his father and grandfather were butchers. He says “it is in his blood, he has a passion for butchery, and it is not just a job”. He also stated that his family is the first consumers of his products, so they have to be great. Paolo was not only a butcher, but a certified Body Builder and Trainer (he showed me the official cards-but I could see the muscles myself). Paolo was serious guy; we had a great conversation regarding the eating of meat, fat and vegetarians and what the human body needs to be healthy. You would never convince Paolo to stop eating meat. It is important to note that like the cuisine of Italy, the butchery and cuts of meat can vary from region to region.
· Macellaio – the butcher
· Macellerira – the butcher shop
Paolo picks his animals while they are alive and still fairly young so he can establish a relationship with the animal, see how it is raised, he knows the animals’ food, and how the animal was cared for. The beef side he brought in had his name written on the inside rib of the carcass. The carcass also had an official tag on it with a tracking number, stated where it was born, raised, and slaughtered. And a blank line, butchered by-because the animal was bought by him whole.
The breed of cow was typical of Marche, and is called Grasso Marchigiana. The ½ of cow was about 12 months old and weighed 126kg and cost between 7 & 8 Euro per kg. The back 2/3’s of the cow is called the Pistola Longa, the long gun. The butcher deftly and swiftly began to dismantle this into pieces: Pancia – Belly, Lombata –loin, Filetto – Filet, (he took of the loin and filet together with the head of the filet exposed – Testa del Filetto – he did this to cut Bistecca (T-bones from the loin), Sotto Fresa–Rump, Girello – Eye Round, Noce – round, Fesa Interna-Inside round, Codone –tri tip, Campanella (little bell) – back of shank, Muscolo Disosatto-lower shank without bones. The front part he broke into three parts at first-Spalla –Shoulder, Petto-Breast, Collo – Neck, and then broke down those – the skirt, Bianco Costato –White Ribs –the inside of the belly after removing the bones, Golla – Throat –for ground meat, Girello di Spalla – Shoulder Round, Fesa di Spalla – Shoulder Rump, Punta de Spalla – Top of shoulder, Collo – the over meat of the neck for ground beef, Costata – front of the loin – steak, and other pieces to be ground.
Maile – Pork
The butcher first laid out several cured cuts of meat on the table in the shape of a pig and then he brought in the ½ of pig that was about 6 months old when slaughtered. We discussed the cured meats and where they came from the pig.
We discussed the fat on the pig and the different qualities.
· Golla – fat from the throat – it is the best fat because the animal is born with it-it has the most flavor
· Strutto – Fat Back – 2nd in quality for taste
· Pancetta – belly fat – the newest fat on the animal – therefore the least flavorful. Paolo says you can taste the difference if you start a dish with Golla as opposed to Pancetta, and I believe him-he was serious
He showed how to remove the skin and meat off the face for Guanciale – the cheek – it is cured like pancetta. Surprisingly to me it does not contain the actual round of cheek meat. He said the cheek meat is used in Coppa di Testa (head Cheese). He took the skin of the feet for Zampone. Removed the rear leg and trimmed for Prosciutto – he rubs his for 20-28 days with salt, washes and hangs to dry for 15-16 months at 4-5 degrees C. He showed us how to cut the thigh for Culatello- basically a boneless prosciutto from the best part of the leg - with the Noce removed. When he trimmed the pancetta he cut off the bottom –the breast because it was a female pig. For his Pancetta he rubs with the cure for 8 days with 3.5-4% salt mix and spices, then cleans and rolls and hangs for at least 90 days. He said the best pancetta’s hang for 90 or more days. The collo –neck he cleaned and showed how it can be used as a roast or for curing. For the neck he cures it 8 to 10 days, then washes, and then hangs for 90-100 days at 10-12 degrees C.
The cured pieces he brought were Guancialle, Collo, Lombo, Pancetta, Soppressato, Fabriano, and Prosciutto. We ended our day by tasting all the cured meats made by Paolo and discussing the wonderful items you can prepare from meat. The cured meats were all excellent.
Paolo’s butcher shop is in the town of Moie 9km from Jesi, it is the same town that Chef Giuliano Pediconi is from. Paolo arrived to the school in a small refrigerator truck in which a ½ of cow and a ½ of pig were hanging. Paolo comes from a family of butchers; his father and grandfather were butchers. He says “it is in his blood, he has a passion for butchery, and it is not just a job”. He also stated that his family is the first consumers of his products, so they have to be great. Paolo was not only a butcher, but a certified Body Builder and Trainer (he showed me the official cards-but I could see the muscles myself). Paolo was serious guy; we had a great conversation regarding the eating of meat, fat and vegetarians and what the human body needs to be healthy. You would never convince Paolo to stop eating meat. It is important to note that like the cuisine of Italy, the butchery and cuts of meat can vary from region to region.
· Macellaio – the butcher
· Macellerira – the butcher shop
Paolo picks his animals while they are alive and still fairly young so he can establish a relationship with the animal, see how it is raised, he knows the animals’ food, and how the animal was cared for. The beef side he brought in had his name written on the inside rib of the carcass. The carcass also had an official tag on it with a tracking number, stated where it was born, raised, and slaughtered. And a blank line, butchered by-because the animal was bought by him whole.
The breed of cow was typical of Marche, and is called Grasso Marchigiana. The ½ of cow was about 12 months old and weighed 126kg and cost between 7 & 8 Euro per kg. The back 2/3’s of the cow is called the Pistola Longa, the long gun. The butcher deftly and swiftly began to dismantle this into pieces: Pancia – Belly, Lombata –loin, Filetto – Filet, (he took of the loin and filet together with the head of the filet exposed – Testa del Filetto – he did this to cut Bistecca (T-bones from the loin), Sotto Fresa–Rump, Girello – Eye Round, Noce – round, Fesa Interna-Inside round, Codone –tri tip, Campanella (little bell) – back of shank, Muscolo Disosatto-lower shank without bones. The front part he broke into three parts at first-Spalla –Shoulder, Petto-Breast, Collo – Neck, and then broke down those – the skirt, Bianco Costato –White Ribs –the inside of the belly after removing the bones, Golla – Throat –for ground meat, Girello di Spalla – Shoulder Round, Fesa di Spalla – Shoulder Rump, Punta de Spalla – Top of shoulder, Collo – the over meat of the neck for ground beef, Costata – front of the loin – steak, and other pieces to be ground.
Maile – Pork
The butcher first laid out several cured cuts of meat on the table in the shape of a pig and then he brought in the ½ of pig that was about 6 months old when slaughtered. We discussed the cured meats and where they came from the pig.
We discussed the fat on the pig and the different qualities.
· Golla – fat from the throat – it is the best fat because the animal is born with it-it has the most flavor
· Strutto – Fat Back – 2nd in quality for taste
· Pancetta – belly fat – the newest fat on the animal – therefore the least flavorful. Paolo says you can taste the difference if you start a dish with Golla as opposed to Pancetta, and I believe him-he was serious
He showed how to remove the skin and meat off the face for Guanciale – the cheek – it is cured like pancetta. Surprisingly to me it does not contain the actual round of cheek meat. He said the cheek meat is used in Coppa di Testa (head Cheese). He took the skin of the feet for Zampone. Removed the rear leg and trimmed for Prosciutto – he rubs his for 20-28 days with salt, washes and hangs to dry for 15-16 months at 4-5 degrees C. He showed us how to cut the thigh for Culatello- basically a boneless prosciutto from the best part of the leg - with the Noce removed. When he trimmed the pancetta he cut off the bottom –the breast because it was a female pig. For his Pancetta he rubs with the cure for 8 days with 3.5-4% salt mix and spices, then cleans and rolls and hangs for at least 90 days. He said the best pancetta’s hang for 90 or more days. The collo –neck he cleaned and showed how it can be used as a roast or for curing. For the neck he cures it 8 to 10 days, then washes, and then hangs for 90-100 days at 10-12 degrees C.
The cured pieces he brought were Guancialle, Collo, Lombo, Pancetta, Soppressato, Fabriano, and Prosciutto. We ended our day by tasting all the cured meats made by Paolo and discussing the wonderful items you can prepare from meat. The cured meats were all excellent.
Thursday, May 15, 2008
Pane, Pane, Pane
Pane – Giuliano Pediconi
“The recipe is the least important component; it is a guideline which allows for many variations. When the water and flour are mixed they begin a new life cycle”.
Always add the salt at the end of the mixing, helps to keep the dough tender
Malt is needed in the Grissini and is used in many recipes to help stimulate fermentation and helps to keep the items crispy, not chewy or gummy.
The temperature during mixing is very important, the dough should not heat up, it can change the texture of the final product. Cold water can be used to control mixing temperature.
· Temperature of the flour – can’t control, is room temp generally
· Ambient Temperature – can’t control
· Temperature of the water – can control – you can adjust based on the final mixing temp you are looking for.
A Biga was used for many of the recipes we made. The chef’s basic Biga was:
1. 1 Kg – High Protein Flour -like Manitoba
2. 10g – Fresh Yeast
3. 450g – Water
· Mix and cover with towel and let lit out for 15 to 24 hours –Than use.
Biga is an mixture made from flour, water and yeast. It is made up each time for a loaf of bread -- it is not meant to be reserved and carried over, as is done for a sourdough starter. The Biga is the first part of the ingredients for your bread, then to it you add more flour, water, etc. It provides good flavor to bread, and helps the final product to retain moisture and freshness longer.
Manitoba – Flour This comes as both a 0 and 00 flour. Made from the Manitoba variety of hard wheat, as grown in Canada and the States, it has a high protein content. Basically a strong, highly-refined white bread flour, it is mostly used as a flour to strengthen other flours.Substitutes:If you are making bread: in North America, some suggest 3 parts all-purpose flour to 1 part cake flour; Bread (strong) flour on its own is probably pretty much too strong for almost any Italian recipe. The absolute highest protein content you'd want in a flour for Italian bread would be 12 to 12.5%, tops (Practically Edible.com).
We made:
· Focaccia Pugliese – what made this a Puglia Style focaccia is that it uses Potato Flakes (or fresh) and a small % of Semolina Durum Wheat with the flour. Malt was also used. The bread is topped prior to baking with EVO, tomatoes that are torn into pieces by hand-so the juices drip into the dough, oregano, and salt.
· Focaccia di Recco from Genoa – this dough was stretched very thin like strudel dough and laid in a large pan, than prosciutto cotto and Crescenza cheese(semi soft, slight tang) were placed on the dough. Then a top layer of the thin dough was laid over the ham and cheese. It was brushed with milk, a couple small vent hole poked in the top, and baked at a high temperature. It needs to eaten when hot out of the oven. The chef stated that this expensive to by in Genoa. It was good.
· Pane Marchigiano – Marche Style Bread –made with a Biga- straight forward round loaf- crusty on the outside and tender in the center-good.
· Pane alle Noce – Bread with Walnuts – small amount of Biga added-about golf ball size, white flour mixed with 10% whole wheat , and a small amount of graham flour, butter added a piece at a time like for Brioche. Can make variations with the flavorings. We made some with anchovies. We rolled them nut shaped. Tasty.
· Pane Con Grano Spezzato E Farina di Farro – Spezzato is broken wheat or coarse ground unrefined wheat. The chef poured hot water 1500kg on the Grano Spezzato 1 kg and once it cooled some he mixed in 3 grams brewers yeast and let it sit out over night. The next day we mixed in 1250g Flour, 250g,Spelt Flour, 1500g Biga, Malt, Salt and Water. We made braided loaves. The bread had a great nutty taste, crisp outside and tender middle. It was good whole grain bread!
· Pan Brioche – Standard Brioche 1000g flour with the addition of 20% Biga and 1% Malt – Great flavor, texture and crumb
· Pane Mandorle Ricotta Limone – Almond, Ricotta, and Lemon Bread – made with 1000g flour, bran 6%, ricotta, 20%, butter 7%, almonds 25%, Biga 20%, Malt 1%, milk, honey, candied lemon zest and compressed yeast. We made inot flowers and roses. These had a great taste and texture. You could eat them with butter and honey. Or they would be great to use to accompany a cheese course!
· Grissini Stirati – great bread stickes, Marche style. They are pulled, not rolled or twisted, like ones in the Piedmont region. The twisted ones are more dry. 1000g Flour, EVO 4%, Malt 1.5 %, H2o 55%, salt 2%,yeast 1%, Struttto (lard) 4%. Once proofed some were sprinkled with cornmeal, and some with a mix of parmesan and sesame seeds, then cut and pulled. Proofed again and baked. Very crispy and really tasty. I have been eating them for two days know and they are great!
· Pane Pomodoro e Ricotta – 1250g Flour, 24% Biga, 5% sugar, 20% ricotta, 28% Pureed Tomato,16% EVO, 8% water, 4% milk, 4%yeast, 2% salt – Standard mixing. We cut rolled and tied in a knot. These were very good. Nice texture and great flavor.
· Maritozzi – Pane Dolce of the Marche region. They are usually prepared for festive occasions eapecially Fathers Day. Maritozzi means close to one another, like being married. When these are panned up the are placed close to each other so when they bake the are touching. After baking you tear them apart so the sides of the bread is white from being torn from the one next to it. You start these with 200gmilk, 50g yeast, and 20g sugar and let triple. Then mix in 1000g flour, 30% eggs, 1% malt, 3% yeast, 20% sugar, 25% butter, 2% salt, orange zest, 30% raisins rehydrated with rum. Make like brioche, mix dough and slowly add in butter. When baking brush tops with a thick simple syrup to turn white and add more sweetness. These came out really tender, soft, and great to eat. They make a great dessert, or a sweet breakfast bread.
· Ciabatta Pomodoro E Grano Spezzato – a nice full flavored ciabatta (means flip-flop), with a super crusty exterior and a light tender interior, a really good ciabatta. Much more tender than ones in the generally found in the states. 2 x Biga from above, 300g Flour, 350g Tomato Paste, 230g Grano Spezzato, 25g Malt, 6g yeast, 50g salt, 150g EVO, 800g water. Mix Biga and dry ingredients and slowly mix in oil and water, alternating each as they are absorbed. The dough is very soft, and it must remain smooth while you are adding the oil and water. Proof, cut and line cut side up on a table cloth with a lot of semolina dusted on it, cover and let proof. Very gently flip them over onto baking pans and bake.
I had dreams of bread last night – Pane, Pane, Pane!
“The recipe is the least important component; it is a guideline which allows for many variations. When the water and flour are mixed they begin a new life cycle”.
Always add the salt at the end of the mixing, helps to keep the dough tender
Malt is needed in the Grissini and is used in many recipes to help stimulate fermentation and helps to keep the items crispy, not chewy or gummy.
The temperature during mixing is very important, the dough should not heat up, it can change the texture of the final product. Cold water can be used to control mixing temperature.
· Temperature of the flour – can’t control, is room temp generally
· Ambient Temperature – can’t control
· Temperature of the water – can control – you can adjust based on the final mixing temp you are looking for.
A Biga was used for many of the recipes we made. The chef’s basic Biga was:
1. 1 Kg – High Protein Flour -like Manitoba
2. 10g – Fresh Yeast
3. 450g – Water
· Mix and cover with towel and let lit out for 15 to 24 hours –Than use.
Biga is an mixture made from flour, water and yeast. It is made up each time for a loaf of bread -- it is not meant to be reserved and carried over, as is done for a sourdough starter. The Biga is the first part of the ingredients for your bread, then to it you add more flour, water, etc. It provides good flavor to bread, and helps the final product to retain moisture and freshness longer.
Manitoba – Flour This comes as both a 0 and 00 flour. Made from the Manitoba variety of hard wheat, as grown in Canada and the States, it has a high protein content. Basically a strong, highly-refined white bread flour, it is mostly used as a flour to strengthen other flours.Substitutes:If you are making bread: in North America, some suggest 3 parts all-purpose flour to 1 part cake flour; Bread (strong) flour on its own is probably pretty much too strong for almost any Italian recipe. The absolute highest protein content you'd want in a flour for Italian bread would be 12 to 12.5%, tops (Practically Edible.com).
We made:
· Focaccia Pugliese – what made this a Puglia Style focaccia is that it uses Potato Flakes (or fresh) and a small % of Semolina Durum Wheat with the flour. Malt was also used. The bread is topped prior to baking with EVO, tomatoes that are torn into pieces by hand-so the juices drip into the dough, oregano, and salt.
· Focaccia di Recco from Genoa – this dough was stretched very thin like strudel dough and laid in a large pan, than prosciutto cotto and Crescenza cheese(semi soft, slight tang) were placed on the dough. Then a top layer of the thin dough was laid over the ham and cheese. It was brushed with milk, a couple small vent hole poked in the top, and baked at a high temperature. It needs to eaten when hot out of the oven. The chef stated that this expensive to by in Genoa. It was good.
· Pane Marchigiano – Marche Style Bread –made with a Biga- straight forward round loaf- crusty on the outside and tender in the center-good.
· Pane alle Noce – Bread with Walnuts – small amount of Biga added-about golf ball size, white flour mixed with 10% whole wheat , and a small amount of graham flour, butter added a piece at a time like for Brioche. Can make variations with the flavorings. We made some with anchovies. We rolled them nut shaped. Tasty.
· Pane Con Grano Spezzato E Farina di Farro – Spezzato is broken wheat or coarse ground unrefined wheat. The chef poured hot water 1500kg on the Grano Spezzato 1 kg and once it cooled some he mixed in 3 grams brewers yeast and let it sit out over night. The next day we mixed in 1250g Flour, 250g,Spelt Flour, 1500g Biga, Malt, Salt and Water. We made braided loaves. The bread had a great nutty taste, crisp outside and tender middle. It was good whole grain bread!
· Pan Brioche – Standard Brioche 1000g flour with the addition of 20% Biga and 1% Malt – Great flavor, texture and crumb
· Pane Mandorle Ricotta Limone – Almond, Ricotta, and Lemon Bread – made with 1000g flour, bran 6%, ricotta, 20%, butter 7%, almonds 25%, Biga 20%, Malt 1%, milk, honey, candied lemon zest and compressed yeast. We made inot flowers and roses. These had a great taste and texture. You could eat them with butter and honey. Or they would be great to use to accompany a cheese course!
· Grissini Stirati – great bread stickes, Marche style. They are pulled, not rolled or twisted, like ones in the Piedmont region. The twisted ones are more dry. 1000g Flour, EVO 4%, Malt 1.5 %, H2o 55%, salt 2%,yeast 1%, Struttto (lard) 4%. Once proofed some were sprinkled with cornmeal, and some with a mix of parmesan and sesame seeds, then cut and pulled. Proofed again and baked. Very crispy and really tasty. I have been eating them for two days know and they are great!
· Pane Pomodoro e Ricotta – 1250g Flour, 24% Biga, 5% sugar, 20% ricotta, 28% Pureed Tomato,16% EVO, 8% water, 4% milk, 4%yeast, 2% salt – Standard mixing. We cut rolled and tied in a knot. These were very good. Nice texture and great flavor.
· Maritozzi – Pane Dolce of the Marche region. They are usually prepared for festive occasions eapecially Fathers Day. Maritozzi means close to one another, like being married. When these are panned up the are placed close to each other so when they bake the are touching. After baking you tear them apart so the sides of the bread is white from being torn from the one next to it. You start these with 200gmilk, 50g yeast, and 20g sugar and let triple. Then mix in 1000g flour, 30% eggs, 1% malt, 3% yeast, 20% sugar, 25% butter, 2% salt, orange zest, 30% raisins rehydrated with rum. Make like brioche, mix dough and slowly add in butter. When baking brush tops with a thick simple syrup to turn white and add more sweetness. These came out really tender, soft, and great to eat. They make a great dessert, or a sweet breakfast bread.
· Ciabatta Pomodoro E Grano Spezzato – a nice full flavored ciabatta (means flip-flop), with a super crusty exterior and a light tender interior, a really good ciabatta. Much more tender than ones in the generally found in the states. 2 x Biga from above, 300g Flour, 350g Tomato Paste, 230g Grano Spezzato, 25g Malt, 6g yeast, 50g salt, 150g EVO, 800g water. Mix Biga and dry ingredients and slowly mix in oil and water, alternating each as they are absorbed. The dough is very soft, and it must remain smooth while you are adding the oil and water. Proof, cut and line cut side up on a table cloth with a lot of semolina dusted on it, cover and let proof. Very gently flip them over onto baking pans and bake.
I had dreams of bread last night – Pane, Pane, Pane!
Tuesday, May 13, 2008
Organic Farm & Mill and Salumi Tasting #1
Organic Farm & Mill and Salumi Tasting # 1
Today we visited an Organic Farm and Mill La Terra E Il Cielo (the earth and the sky) that follows the lunar cycles for the planting of its crops. The mill is from the 17th century and is water powered. They produce mostly organic flour and grains for pasta. They produce durum wheat, spelt, and barely (orzo). They also produce a corn meal based on an old variety of corn called Mais Ottofile, because it has eight (otto) rows. This corn is lower yielding variety because it only has eight rows. The mill and farms are a co-operative of 100 small farmers. They practice profit sharing. The company started in 1980 as an organic farm that only produced enough products to supply the families involved at the time. The group is now quit large shipping its products to many different countries. Their pasta’s have won many awards in Italy for being the best organic, whole grain pasta available. They stressed to us the same thing that Peppe Zullo did – Terra to Tavola!
Salami – Tasting-Nicola Gattanella
Salami derived from Latin Salumen – to preserve with salt.
#1 Start with a great product – 3 primary factors influence this:
· Wild or semi wild – animal is of utmost importance
· The Feeding is noble –no by products, little grain, Forago Fresco-wild foraged food is best
· Choice of breed- Very high quality Italian breeds include:
o Casertana – Black Pig –from the same area in the south that Mozzarella comes from
o Mora Romangnola – typical of Marche
o Cinta Senese- originally from Tuscany, but now found in other parts of Italy. Black with a white band around the neck. Considered to be one the best breeds in Italy.
The day before slaughter reduce the feed to the animals and move to the slaughter location so they are not stressed before the slaughter. If the animals are stressed before the slaughter the meat will have a higher content of lactic acid which will have an adverse effect on the taste and texture of the meat. Important that they do not see other slaughtered animals or it causes them stress. We tasted several types of Salumi –some industrial and some artisanal so we could compare.
· Tasting is a lot like tasting wine, start with a visual first, look at the outside and determine if it has mold. There should be mold, should be even coverage and should be white. A little green mold is ok, black is not. White is often faked with rice flour in industrial processing.
· Casing – should be natural, not synthetic, the natural casing lets more flavor develop in the salami
· Color- once sliced – should be even from the center out. Not too pink, if it is too pink too much Nitrite was used
· Skin – should peel off easily, not be sticky
· Smell – should smell of the meat first, spices and aging second, and some acidity
· Mouth feel- the product should dissolve in the mouth. Should not be tough or chewy (may be a sign of lactic acid).
· Taste-should be of meat first, then the aging and seasoning. Salt or spices should not dominate
Types tasted:
· Ciauscolo – Typical of the Marche 50-60% Meat and 50-40% Fat – Semi soft because of the high Fat content. Seasoned with Salt, Pepper and Garlic. Aged about 20-60 days. Made will Belly, shoulder, and other various cuts. They say people in the area like to spread it on bread. Tasted two industrial – neither great, but one was more flavorful and pleasant than the other.
· Salame Lardellata – from Fabriano – From the loin and fat back, Seasoned with Salt and Pepper, the lean meat is very lean interspersed with hand cut fat. Aged 50-150 days. These were industrial and were not distinguished.
· Salame di Fabriano- typically served around Easter. Lean meat only taken from the thigh – fat only from the back (best). Meat is ground and mixed with little fat, is fairly lean. Fat is hand cubed and mixed in. Tiny bit of smoke, because traditionally they hung in the kitchen and picked up a little smoke from the oven and fireplace. The diced fat is salted before mixing in so it cures a little and has flavoring on its own. Artisanal.
· Coppa di Testa – head cheese – Head, Nose, Ears, Tongue, Cheek, bones and other scraps – Salt, Pepper-can have things like green olives, orange peel, lemon peel, cinnamon, garlic paste, pistachios, almonds etc. Industrial, not distinguished.
· Salsicce – Fresh Sausage – we tasted raw and cooked. Good quality fresh sausage.
· Mortadella – True Mortadella de Bologna does not contain pistachios. Meat is from the leg, tripe, cheek (guanciale), and throat (gola). Spices – Salt, White Pepper, Nutmeg, Coriander, Garlic and in some versions Pistachios. It is an emulsion forcemeat using ice to make a very fine and smooth forcemeat. Back fat(lardo) is cubed, blanched and folded in. Pasquini is a high quality producer in Bologna. Very delicate, delicious
· Cervo Salame – Deer Salame – from Fruili region in the northeast. Deer 70%, Pork Fat Back 30% -salt, pepper, wine, garlic, and “mountain aromas”. It is lightly smoked, and has a “wild” taste. Actually very good, not too strong. It was covered in Farina di Mais (corn meal), and had a semi soft texture.
· N’ Duja – Calabria- looked like a bread loaf, but dark red, semi soft, like a big semi soft pepperoni, very spicy with hot pepper, left a lingering burning sensation, but good if you like spicy! He suggested that it is wonderful with pasta, and I concur that it would be tasty.
Today we visited an Organic Farm and Mill La Terra E Il Cielo (the earth and the sky) that follows the lunar cycles for the planting of its crops. The mill is from the 17th century and is water powered. They produce mostly organic flour and grains for pasta. They produce durum wheat, spelt, and barely (orzo). They also produce a corn meal based on an old variety of corn called Mais Ottofile, because it has eight (otto) rows. This corn is lower yielding variety because it only has eight rows. The mill and farms are a co-operative of 100 small farmers. They practice profit sharing. The company started in 1980 as an organic farm that only produced enough products to supply the families involved at the time. The group is now quit large shipping its products to many different countries. Their pasta’s have won many awards in Italy for being the best organic, whole grain pasta available. They stressed to us the same thing that Peppe Zullo did – Terra to Tavola!
Salami – Tasting-Nicola Gattanella
Salami derived from Latin Salumen – to preserve with salt.
#1 Start with a great product – 3 primary factors influence this:
· Wild or semi wild – animal is of utmost importance
· The Feeding is noble –no by products, little grain, Forago Fresco-wild foraged food is best
· Choice of breed- Very high quality Italian breeds include:
o Casertana – Black Pig –from the same area in the south that Mozzarella comes from
o Mora Romangnola – typical of Marche
o Cinta Senese- originally from Tuscany, but now found in other parts of Italy. Black with a white band around the neck. Considered to be one the best breeds in Italy.
The day before slaughter reduce the feed to the animals and move to the slaughter location so they are not stressed before the slaughter. If the animals are stressed before the slaughter the meat will have a higher content of lactic acid which will have an adverse effect on the taste and texture of the meat. Important that they do not see other slaughtered animals or it causes them stress. We tasted several types of Salumi –some industrial and some artisanal so we could compare.
· Tasting is a lot like tasting wine, start with a visual first, look at the outside and determine if it has mold. There should be mold, should be even coverage and should be white. A little green mold is ok, black is not. White is often faked with rice flour in industrial processing.
· Casing – should be natural, not synthetic, the natural casing lets more flavor develop in the salami
· Color- once sliced – should be even from the center out. Not too pink, if it is too pink too much Nitrite was used
· Skin – should peel off easily, not be sticky
· Smell – should smell of the meat first, spices and aging second, and some acidity
· Mouth feel- the product should dissolve in the mouth. Should not be tough or chewy (may be a sign of lactic acid).
· Taste-should be of meat first, then the aging and seasoning. Salt or spices should not dominate
Types tasted:
· Ciauscolo – Typical of the Marche 50-60% Meat and 50-40% Fat – Semi soft because of the high Fat content. Seasoned with Salt, Pepper and Garlic. Aged about 20-60 days. Made will Belly, shoulder, and other various cuts. They say people in the area like to spread it on bread. Tasted two industrial – neither great, but one was more flavorful and pleasant than the other.
· Salame Lardellata – from Fabriano – From the loin and fat back, Seasoned with Salt and Pepper, the lean meat is very lean interspersed with hand cut fat. Aged 50-150 days. These were industrial and were not distinguished.
· Salame di Fabriano- typically served around Easter. Lean meat only taken from the thigh – fat only from the back (best). Meat is ground and mixed with little fat, is fairly lean. Fat is hand cubed and mixed in. Tiny bit of smoke, because traditionally they hung in the kitchen and picked up a little smoke from the oven and fireplace. The diced fat is salted before mixing in so it cures a little and has flavoring on its own. Artisanal.
· Coppa di Testa – head cheese – Head, Nose, Ears, Tongue, Cheek, bones and other scraps – Salt, Pepper-can have things like green olives, orange peel, lemon peel, cinnamon, garlic paste, pistachios, almonds etc. Industrial, not distinguished.
· Salsicce – Fresh Sausage – we tasted raw and cooked. Good quality fresh sausage.
· Mortadella – True Mortadella de Bologna does not contain pistachios. Meat is from the leg, tripe, cheek (guanciale), and throat (gola). Spices – Salt, White Pepper, Nutmeg, Coriander, Garlic and in some versions Pistachios. It is an emulsion forcemeat using ice to make a very fine and smooth forcemeat. Back fat(lardo) is cubed, blanched and folded in. Pasquini is a high quality producer in Bologna. Very delicate, delicious
· Cervo Salame – Deer Salame – from Fruili region in the northeast. Deer 70%, Pork Fat Back 30% -salt, pepper, wine, garlic, and “mountain aromas”. It is lightly smoked, and has a “wild” taste. Actually very good, not too strong. It was covered in Farina di Mais (corn meal), and had a semi soft texture.
· N’ Duja – Calabria- looked like a bread loaf, but dark red, semi soft, like a big semi soft pepperoni, very spicy with hot pepper, left a lingering burning sensation, but good if you like spicy! He suggested that it is wonderful with pasta, and I concur that it would be tasty.
Friday, May 9, 2008
Marche Region
The Marche – visiting Chef Gian Carlo Rossi
The Marche is located in central Italy on the Adriatic coast. The region is rich in food products and offers great diversity. The region has 170km of coast line so seafood is prevalent in the cuisine with clams, mussels, sardines, shrimp, monkfish, John Dory, cod, cuttlefish and sea snails being common. The area has mountains and has an abundance of wild game, namely Cinghiale or wild boar, and rabbit. The mountains also provide a variety of mushrooms, and plentiful truffles. The mountains/hills also produce grapes for wine making with two main types being Rosso Conero and Verdicchio. Very high quality Verdicchio is produced and it can run from sparkling, dry, to sweet. Good quality olive oil is produced but not in large quantities compared with some other regions. The Marche also has plains in the south which provide plenty of wheat, grains like Spelt/Farro, and legumes.
The area is known for meats as well as seafood. Pork is king in the area, but beef is popular as well. The region raises a specific breed of cow called the Grassa Marchiagano and is said to rival the quality of famous Chiania beef of Tuscany. The area compares with North Carolina as pork loving country. Traditionally almost all dishes were started with lard instead of olive oil, the reason being that lard was more plentiful, and cheaper than olive oil in this area. There has been an evolution and now the people of the area generally start dishes with a 50/50 mix of olive oil and lard. We did cook a lot of pork during class!
The area uses eggs in its Sfoglia (pasta), the chef stated an interesting fact that it is only in last 50 years that they started to use Grano Duro (durum wheat, semolina ) in their pasta. Before that they only used soft wheat because that was what was grown in the region. The south had the durum wheat. Key terms or definitions:
Potacchio – something cooked with garlic and rosemary
Porchetta – something cooked with wild fennel (not just pork).
Frascarelli – like polenta, but made with white flour. Frascarelli di Riso – the same but made with the addition of rice. It was like rice porridge and can be served sweet or savory. A very poor and humble dish. We ate it with duck ragu and one with Saba both were really good.
Passatelli – a dough made from bread crumbs, grated parm, flour and eggs. Used like pasta and really tasty.
Cresc Tajat – a dough made from left over polenta, flour and water. You make a dough and use like pasta.
Tasting so many delicious dishes that are created and based on necessity, total utilization, taste, nutrition, and comfort reminds me how screwed up the US has gotten. I think about food a lot, and I am very connected to the source of almost all the food I cook and consume. Therefore I find it strange that I feel a little ill at the notion that as a country we were so ignorant, weak willed, and willing to be lead astray by marketing and big business that a majority of the food consumed in the US is not connected to anything, is unhealthy, and is really crappy. I have read all the books, know all the jargon, and am doing my part to help right the ship, but as a US citizen I feel embarrassed that we have let our food systems get so screwed up.
We cooked: Chicken Potacchio, Frascarelli di riso, Campofilone Pasta with Artichokes, Sfogliata Primavera, Viincigrassi (Lasagna-Marche Style), Gnocchi Patate con Sugo all’ anatra, Passatelli in Brodo, Zuppa di Cicerchia in Pagnotta, Cresc Tajat con Sugo Finto, Coniglio in Porchetta -2 ways, Stracciatella in Brodo, Zuppa di Farro, Fave in Porchetta, Spaghetti di Farro con Cicerchia, Freco – a ratatouille type of dish, Marocchini Biscotti, Ciambello – a cake/cookie
The Marche is located in central Italy on the Adriatic coast. The region is rich in food products and offers great diversity. The region has 170km of coast line so seafood is prevalent in the cuisine with clams, mussels, sardines, shrimp, monkfish, John Dory, cod, cuttlefish and sea snails being common. The area has mountains and has an abundance of wild game, namely Cinghiale or wild boar, and rabbit. The mountains also provide a variety of mushrooms, and plentiful truffles. The mountains/hills also produce grapes for wine making with two main types being Rosso Conero and Verdicchio. Very high quality Verdicchio is produced and it can run from sparkling, dry, to sweet. Good quality olive oil is produced but not in large quantities compared with some other regions. The Marche also has plains in the south which provide plenty of wheat, grains like Spelt/Farro, and legumes.
The area is known for meats as well as seafood. Pork is king in the area, but beef is popular as well. The region raises a specific breed of cow called the Grassa Marchiagano and is said to rival the quality of famous Chiania beef of Tuscany. The area compares with North Carolina as pork loving country. Traditionally almost all dishes were started with lard instead of olive oil, the reason being that lard was more plentiful, and cheaper than olive oil in this area. There has been an evolution and now the people of the area generally start dishes with a 50/50 mix of olive oil and lard. We did cook a lot of pork during class!
The area uses eggs in its Sfoglia (pasta), the chef stated an interesting fact that it is only in last 50 years that they started to use Grano Duro (durum wheat, semolina ) in their pasta. Before that they only used soft wheat because that was what was grown in the region. The south had the durum wheat. Key terms or definitions:
Potacchio – something cooked with garlic and rosemary
Porchetta – something cooked with wild fennel (not just pork).
Frascarelli – like polenta, but made with white flour. Frascarelli di Riso – the same but made with the addition of rice. It was like rice porridge and can be served sweet or savory. A very poor and humble dish. We ate it with duck ragu and one with Saba both were really good.
Passatelli – a dough made from bread crumbs, grated parm, flour and eggs. Used like pasta and really tasty.
Cresc Tajat – a dough made from left over polenta, flour and water. You make a dough and use like pasta.
Tasting so many delicious dishes that are created and based on necessity, total utilization, taste, nutrition, and comfort reminds me how screwed up the US has gotten. I think about food a lot, and I am very connected to the source of almost all the food I cook and consume. Therefore I find it strange that I feel a little ill at the notion that as a country we were so ignorant, weak willed, and willing to be lead astray by marketing and big business that a majority of the food consumed in the US is not connected to anything, is unhealthy, and is really crappy. I have read all the books, know all the jargon, and am doing my part to help right the ship, but as a US citizen I feel embarrassed that we have let our food systems get so screwed up.
We cooked: Chicken Potacchio, Frascarelli di riso, Campofilone Pasta with Artichokes, Sfogliata Primavera, Viincigrassi (Lasagna-Marche Style), Gnocchi Patate con Sugo all’ anatra, Passatelli in Brodo, Zuppa di Cicerchia in Pagnotta, Cresc Tajat con Sugo Finto, Coniglio in Porchetta -2 ways, Stracciatella in Brodo, Zuppa di Farro, Fave in Porchetta, Spaghetti di Farro con Cicerchia, Freco – a ratatouille type of dish, Marocchini Biscotti, Ciambello – a cake/cookie
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Puglia -Heel of The Boot
Puglia
Italy has 21 regions but during the Master course we are going to focus on 10 of the most important regions, spending about 2 to 3 days per region. We start the course in Southern Italy in an area called Puglia. I am familiar with this area as it was the first region of Italy I visited and studied in. The Chef from Puglia is Chef Peppe Zullo, who happens to be friends with Chef Dominico Maggi who I studied with over 10 years earlier.
Puglia is one of Italy largest regions and is the second largest producer of olive oil after Sicily. The olive oil from Puglia tends to be full flavored with a peppery finish, I particular like the olive oil from this region; in general I would pick it over Tuscan oil for it flavor and richness. The chef stressed several very interesting points:
v Cuisina Povera – It is a cuisine based on poverty. It is a fairly poor region of Italy. In fact we did not cook meat in the two days. The pasta is made only with flour and water, no eggs. Bread is used extensively as a stuffing.
v Terra to Tavola – from the earth to the table. The chef brought with him all kinds of wild (selvatico) herbs and plants. This I remember from my visit, we constantly passed by people on the side of the road with brown bags, or baskets picking wild fennel, asparagus, lemon verbena, onions, chicory, dandelion greens, rappini, borage, arugula, laurel , and other plants.
v Food at Kilometer Zero – Eat what you have growing in your immediate vicinity! This is why I wanted to come here! Thankfully this trend is growing in the US, get out and buy food from your local farmers!
We made a very interesting pasta dish of the very poor with Grano Arso, burnt wheat. The flour is almost black and smells of smoke. After the wheat harvest the fields are burned to start to be prepared for next year, people will collect the burnt pieces of wheat left in the field and make flour out of it. The smell was strong, but the taste was actually fairly delicate, you could taste the smoke but it was not over powering. We served it with a simple sauce of EVO, garlic, and tomatoes.
We made a lot of items in two days, I may gain 50 pounds: Polpette di Pane, Orecchiette E Cime de Rape, Hand Cut Pasta with Stuffed Cuttlefish, Pancotto (cooked Bread 5 Ways), Handmade Fusilli Pasta Tomato and Wild Fennel, Hand Made Cavatelli di Grano Arso, Hand Cut Pasta with Mixed Wild Greens, Carpaccio of Articoke with Lemon, Olive Oil, & Pecorino, Raw Fava Bean Salad with Mint and Ricotto, Dried & Cooked Fava Beans with Wild Chicory(One of the main dishes of this area), Articoke Primavera – boiled spring artichoke with Mint, Balsamic, and EVO, Tagiolini di Finocchi in Salsa di Arancia (Shaved Raw Fennel with Blood Orange Syrup , Pecorino, and EVO), Wild Asparagus with Mint, Crostini al Marascivolo (Mustard Greens), Pasta Fagoli with Cavatelli, Orecchiette with Borage and Chickpeas, Polpette di Pan con Fusilli
Cheese – Pecorino of sheep milk cheese is very popular in the region. But goats milk and cows milk cheeses are also popular. One cheese called Burata – is a cows milk cheese that when cut open reveals a creamy, buttery center-it is heavenly.
Puglese bread is very special-it is very hearty and has a very thick crust – we used it in many of the preparations.
Italy has 21 regions but during the Master course we are going to focus on 10 of the most important regions, spending about 2 to 3 days per region. We start the course in Southern Italy in an area called Puglia. I am familiar with this area as it was the first region of Italy I visited and studied in. The Chef from Puglia is Chef Peppe Zullo, who happens to be friends with Chef Dominico Maggi who I studied with over 10 years earlier.
Puglia is one of Italy largest regions and is the second largest producer of olive oil after Sicily. The olive oil from Puglia tends to be full flavored with a peppery finish, I particular like the olive oil from this region; in general I would pick it over Tuscan oil for it flavor and richness. The chef stressed several very interesting points:
v Cuisina Povera – It is a cuisine based on poverty. It is a fairly poor region of Italy. In fact we did not cook meat in the two days. The pasta is made only with flour and water, no eggs. Bread is used extensively as a stuffing.
v Terra to Tavola – from the earth to the table. The chef brought with him all kinds of wild (selvatico) herbs and plants. This I remember from my visit, we constantly passed by people on the side of the road with brown bags, or baskets picking wild fennel, asparagus, lemon verbena, onions, chicory, dandelion greens, rappini, borage, arugula, laurel , and other plants.
v Food at Kilometer Zero – Eat what you have growing in your immediate vicinity! This is why I wanted to come here! Thankfully this trend is growing in the US, get out and buy food from your local farmers!
We made a very interesting pasta dish of the very poor with Grano Arso, burnt wheat. The flour is almost black and smells of smoke. After the wheat harvest the fields are burned to start to be prepared for next year, people will collect the burnt pieces of wheat left in the field and make flour out of it. The smell was strong, but the taste was actually fairly delicate, you could taste the smoke but it was not over powering. We served it with a simple sauce of EVO, garlic, and tomatoes.
We made a lot of items in two days, I may gain 50 pounds: Polpette di Pane, Orecchiette E Cime de Rape, Hand Cut Pasta with Stuffed Cuttlefish, Pancotto (cooked Bread 5 Ways), Handmade Fusilli Pasta Tomato and Wild Fennel, Hand Made Cavatelli di Grano Arso, Hand Cut Pasta with Mixed Wild Greens, Carpaccio of Articoke with Lemon, Olive Oil, & Pecorino, Raw Fava Bean Salad with Mint and Ricotto, Dried & Cooked Fava Beans with Wild Chicory(One of the main dishes of this area), Articoke Primavera – boiled spring artichoke with Mint, Balsamic, and EVO, Tagiolini di Finocchi in Salsa di Arancia (Shaved Raw Fennel with Blood Orange Syrup , Pecorino, and EVO), Wild Asparagus with Mint, Crostini al Marascivolo (Mustard Greens), Pasta Fagoli with Cavatelli, Orecchiette with Borage and Chickpeas, Polpette di Pan con Fusilli
Cheese – Pecorino of sheep milk cheese is very popular in the region. But goats milk and cows milk cheeses are also popular. One cheese called Burata – is a cows milk cheese that when cut open reveals a creamy, buttery center-it is heavenly.
Puglese bread is very special-it is very hearty and has a very thick crust – we used it in many of the preparations.
Monday, May 5, 2008
I always tell my students that “one of the best things about being a cook or a chef is that you will never know everything about all the cooking in the world and therefore you should never stop trying to learn”. An so here I am in Jesi, Italy. It struck me as the plane flew into land in Ancona that the land was small farm after small farm. It made me wonder if just maybe 50 years ago flying into Charlotte would have looked very similar, instead of new subdivision after new subdivision?
Students in the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Charlotte have to write a journal for everyday they have a cooking class, it is part of the educational process. Study recipes & techniques before class, practice in class, summarize and reflect at home. I plan that these weekly articles will serve me in the same manner, to document and retain the information. Ask my students, I don’t have the greatest memory. I would like to take this opportunity to thank my faculty and students at the Art Institute, because without their professionalism and dedication I would not have been able to take the time away to attend school.
Students in the International Culinary School at the Art Institute of Charlotte have to write a journal for everyday they have a cooking class, it is part of the educational process. Study recipes & techniques before class, practice in class, summarize and reflect at home. I plan that these weekly articles will serve me in the same manner, to document and retain the information. Ask my students, I don’t have the greatest memory. I would like to take this opportunity to thank my faculty and students at the Art Institute, because without their professionalism and dedication I would not have been able to take the time away to attend school.
Saturday, May 3, 2008
Back to the Basics
The teacher returns to being a student? Why would I after having attended culinary school over 20 years ago and since that time worked in numerous jobs and in particular in culinary education for about 13 years would I feel the need to take a 10 week class on regional Italian cuisine from the Slow Food – Italcook program in Jesi, Italy. I don’t want to be an Italian Chef, I have already been to Italy 10 times from top to bottom, I have competed in a pasta competition in Bologna the Gastronomic Capital of Italy, the home of Tagliatelle Bolognese. I have also been blessed with the opportunities to travel through much of Europe and a good bit of Asia.
Why? What am I hoping to find?
It has been a long time dream of mine to spend more than a week or two in a foreign country. I have to admit that it goes far back to the days when I cooked on the side while my real plan was to make it as a musician. I had always dreamed that I would take my punk/rock band to conquer Europe. Well that never happened and as I am likely to tell anyone, thankfully I am a much better cook than I am a guitar player. Cooking has helped me to experience the world and has helped me accomplish things that I did not think were possible.
Why?
I love Italy, the people, the food, the culture and geography. I love how they embrace the regionalism of the country. The identity of the 20 regions remains strong and don’t confuse one cheese, wine, salami, or pasta with one from another region. The school is associated with the Slow Food movement, which I have been involved with for about 10 years. I had the opportunity to be a Delegate from Charlotte to the 2006 Slow Food Terra Madre Conference in Turino, Italy and from that moment on I knew I had to do more with the movement. I hope I can find inspiration in what I discover in Italy and return to our region, our land, and turn my attentions to discovering more of what our great country has to offer.
Each week I will be reporting on the regions of Italy that I am studying along with a recipe. If the ingredients in recipe are hard to find I will offer you suggestions for replacement ingredients based upon what is available from Matthew’s Community Farmers Market and the Yorkmont Regional Market. My goal is to connect one tiny little town in Italy with the local, organic food scene in Charlotte.
Truth be told I still do like to strap on my axe and jump around like a maniac every once and while. Helps, to keep me young!
Why? What am I hoping to find?
It has been a long time dream of mine to spend more than a week or two in a foreign country. I have to admit that it goes far back to the days when I cooked on the side while my real plan was to make it as a musician. I had always dreamed that I would take my punk/rock band to conquer Europe. Well that never happened and as I am likely to tell anyone, thankfully I am a much better cook than I am a guitar player. Cooking has helped me to experience the world and has helped me accomplish things that I did not think were possible.
Why?
I love Italy, the people, the food, the culture and geography. I love how they embrace the regionalism of the country. The identity of the 20 regions remains strong and don’t confuse one cheese, wine, salami, or pasta with one from another region. The school is associated with the Slow Food movement, which I have been involved with for about 10 years. I had the opportunity to be a Delegate from Charlotte to the 2006 Slow Food Terra Madre Conference in Turino, Italy and from that moment on I knew I had to do more with the movement. I hope I can find inspiration in what I discover in Italy and return to our region, our land, and turn my attentions to discovering more of what our great country has to offer.
Each week I will be reporting on the regions of Italy that I am studying along with a recipe. If the ingredients in recipe are hard to find I will offer you suggestions for replacement ingredients based upon what is available from Matthew’s Community Farmers Market and the Yorkmont Regional Market. My goal is to connect one tiny little town in Italy with the local, organic food scene in Charlotte.
Truth be told I still do like to strap on my axe and jump around like a maniac every once and while. Helps, to keep me young!
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